The waterproof wristwatch of 1941

Selection of 1940’s waterproof wrist watches

Selection of 1940’s waterproof watches

One of the worst enemies of the wrist watch; water. With timekeeping finding it’s place on the wrist around 1918 the watch starts to evolve in a more durable object.

Precise timekeeping was essential in some cases even the precision needed between life and death. Various outside situations could lead to the movement not being the precise instrument it needed to be like dustproof, shockproof, anti magnetic and lets not forget waterproof.

The first mass produced waterproof watch by Rolex from 1926 made sure ever brand needed a waterproof watch in their catalog. This is an article from 1941 when waterproof wristwatches where still in the top of development ending in the mid 1950’s.

The following text is translated:

The fact that the first watchmakers housed the movement of their watch in a case proves that they gave value to protection the movement. Since the first watches these case designs have been improved.

If it is relatively easy to protect the pocket watch against dust and pressure, the wristwatch, on the other hand, so generally adopted, has posed new and more complex problems. Magnetism, shock, water and dust appeared to be major dangers for this type of watch; to obviate their harmful influence, we resorted to more or less successful constructions.

As happens at every stage of technical progress, there were essential trial and error, childhood illnesses, until the day when proven and rational constructions were developed.

Taking a look at the development of the waterproof watch, we can't hold back a little mocking smile.

Already in 1889, a watchmaker imagined protecting the crown of his pocket watch with conical rubber stoppers, without worrying about the other parts of the case. It was from this moment that we tackled the problem of the waterproof watch. It is to Rolex Watch Co. that the merit goes to having succeeded, in 1926, in mass producing, for the first time, waterproof watches. Since the appearance of these watches, favorably received by the public, the waterproof watch has enjoyed increasing success; today there is no more, so to speak, Swiss watch manufacturer whose collection does not contain waterproof watches.

The deeper reason for the tightness

As we have already noted, the wristwatch must be protected against four enemies: magnetism, shock, water and dust. The appearance of waterproof watches certainly marks considerable progress. It saves man from a number of worries. He can wash his hands, play sports, even swim, without worrying about his watch. This convenience is not the only real advantage of the waterproof watch. Let us remember that the greatest enemy of the watch is dust, which over time enters any ordinary case. While the waterproof watch offers certain conveniences to the wearer, the protection it gives against dust is by far the most important. It is in this protection against dust that the greatest advantage of the waterproof watch lies. Waterproof means: convenience; dustproof means: conservation of movement and conservation of precision, it being understood that the waterproof case, in itself, does not produce precision, but that it preserves an existing precision.

Future development of waterproof watch

If we start from the fact that dust tightness is more important than water tightness, we will understand that a case must not only be watertight, but above all gas tight. A watertight box does not imply the idea that it is gastight, which represents one more step in the problem of hermeticity. Currently, few systems can still claim gas tightness. Only these systems are truly resistant to the penetration of dust that enters a box, even if water does not pass through. The development of waterproof watches still poses many problems. We will only mention the problem of the waterproof watch shape, the possibility of changing glasses, etc., etc.

Definition of waterproof watch

When is a so-called waterproof watch really waterproof? According to retail watchmakers in contact with the public, the waterproof watch was a powerful sales factor, but it was often the cause of a lot of trouble. Indeed, you can sell a watch by declaring it is precise, but that is a relative definition. For such, a watch that varies from 3 to 10 minutes is accurate; for another, it is only if it is within 10 seconds. In tightness, relativity does not exist; the watch is waterproof or it is not. Just as you cannot sell a brass box as gold, you cannot sell a supposedly waterproof watch as being waterproof. Currently, many watchmakers prefer to sell a waterproof watch under the name “protected against dust” rather than guaranteeing it to be waterproof if they are not absolutely certain of its qualities. It is obvious that nothing will annoy a customer more than a watch allowing water to penetrate after having been purchased under the guarantee of perfect waterproofness. This causes costs, either for the customer or for the watchmaker, if the latter does the repair free of charge.

There might perhaps be a case for establishing a criterion, a precise definition of a waterproof watch. This designation could only be given to a watch that is not only waterproof when new, but which has remained so after use for a few years... But, to give a certificate to a new watch, it would first be a matter of putting it through a test corresponding to practical use. Establishing a definition of this type today would certainly have the advantage of protecting Swiss watches, avoiding a number of disappointments, and strengthening trust around quality watches. The technicians would certainly find the desired formula, but it would still be necessary that a watch which obtains a certificate could be successfully subjected to a test which would consist, for example, of winding it X times, then immersing it in the water at a pressure of one atmosphere for one hour, etc. After this examination, the watch should not have allowed more than one milligram of water to pass through. A criterion of this type would protect the manufacturer, the watchmaker and the public.

 

Cases defined as waterproof

1001 brevete

1001 breveté

0312

0312

0312 V

1004 breveté

1005

1006

409 F

1008 breveté

1009 breveté. Fermet. a baïonette 1/8 de tour

1010 breveté

1011 Dimensions-Ausmasse Sizes 30,30mm 28,80mm 28,20mm 27,30mm 26,50mm 22,80mm 20,50mm

1012

1013

1014

1015

1016

1017 Brevet demandé

50

409 V

1020 breveté

1021 breveté demandé

1022

1023

1024 breveté

444

1026 breveté

1027 breveté

1028 breveté

1029 breveté

1030

1031

1032 breveté

67

1034 breveté

 

Chronographs

1135

1136 breveté

 

Systems exclusively used by manufacturer

Rolex 1/2

Rolex 2/2

Recta

Tissot

Tavannes Cyma

Tavannes Cyma

Solvil

Helvetia

Wittnauer

Cortébert

Cortébert

Phénix S.A.

IWC

Wyler

Alpina

Pierce

 

Examples by Girard Perregaux

Girard Perregaux Waterproof systems of 1941
Previous
Previous

Restoring provenance: The “Panos Pladelis” Ulysse Nardin Chronograph

Next
Next

Audemars Piguet Meridian