Kurt Schaffo: Artisan d'horlogerie fine
Kurt Schaffo—a name synonymous with the art of skeletonized watch movements. A master of openworking and decorating, he transformed plates and bridges to reveal the intricate mechanics of a timepiece.
Though his name may not be as frequently mentioned as legends like Roger Dubuis, Gérald Genta or Gilbert Albert, Kurt Schaffo was the best in decorated skeletonized movements. From the 1980s to the late 2000s, he operated from his own workshop, crafting exquisite pieces for renowned brands such as Corum, Zenith, and many others. He also produced watches under his own name, Kurt Schaffo, proofing his legacy in the world of horology.
Kurt Schaffo
Kurt Schaffo, the master craftsman from Le Locle, has made a name for himself by transforming high-end watch movements into skeletonized masterpieces. What many watch brands struggle to achieve, Kurt Schaffo can!
To offer insight into his craftsmanship, the exceptional quality of his work, and a glimpse into his private life, I have compiled several articles and information shared by the Schaffo family—to tell his story.
Kurt Schaffo - Originally published in UHREN-MAGAZIN (1992)
In Le Locle, a man earns his living by cutting up watch movements. Kurt Schaffo is a master of skeletonizing watch movements—a skill many watch companies aspire to, but few achieve.
Schaffo calls himself an "artist of fine watchmaking." Yet, at first glance, he doesn’t fit the stereotype of an artist. The man who greets us in slippers and an open polo shirt, with slightly scruffy hair, appears more like a humble craftsman. But Schaffo is both—an artist and a craftsman. The word "artist" alone fails to capture the essence of his work.
His craft is pure technical mastery, yet the results are undeniably art. Luxury watch brands recognize this, to which Schaffo sells some of his work showcasing them under their prestigious names—often at many times the price. Schaffo, however, takes it in as pride, knowing his work appears in magazines among horological masterpieces.
Schaffo enjoys his work, which he does with such ease, but he ensures his workspace is as comfortable as it is functional. His small workshop, where he works entirely alone, is part of a warmly furnished extension of his home.
When Schaffo looks out of the window from his workbench, he looks out onto beautiful flowers and a meticulously maintained garden. "My wife has a green hand—gardening is her hobby," he says.
His view stretches southward. A sloped view on a hillside exactly 1,035 meters above sea level, his home overlooks the valley of Le Locle. For Schaffo and his visitors alike, the scenery is nothing short of breathtaking—a constant reminder that beauty exists not just in the intricate movements he carves, but all around him.
Each year, around 60 watches leave Schaffo’s workshop. However, only a portion bears his name—the rest are sold to the Swiss watch industry. Even for a hard worker like Schaffo, he cannot do everything alone. "My eldest son handles the engravings on the movements," he explains. "But he doesn’t work here. He does it from his apartment in Les Brenets."
Christophe Schaffo, 30 years old and a proud father of a seven-month-old baby, greets us at his door in a T-shirt and Bermuda shorts. "Christophe originally wanted to become a car mechanic, just like I did," Kurt recalls. "But after enduring his first freezing winter in a garage, he quickly changed his mind."
Instead, Christophe pursued engraving at the School of Applied Arts in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Today, he works in a tiny room on the top floor of his apartment, where he meticulously engraves the delicate components of skeletonized watches—an intricate process requiring the aid of a microscope. Alongside that, he relies on burins, grinding tools, and, above all, a sharp imagination, skill, and immense patience—all essential qualities for a master engraver.
Christophe Schaffo’s workplace in Les Brenets
Kurt and Christophe Schaffo, both passionate car enthusiasts.
But Schaffo’s true passion lies in motorsport—or rather, cars. "My touring car is an English Daimler, and I also own a Jaguar, but I mostly drive my wife's little Citroën anyway," he says.
Despite his love for automobiles, his lifestyle, otherwise, remains modest. "We only take two weeks of vacation a year," Schaffo shares. "One week in Provence and one week skiing in Valais," where his daughter lives.
Kurt Schaffo is a self-taught craftsman. He wanted to become a car mechanic, but his parents disapproved, believing the work was too dirty. Instead, he found himself in a relative’s watch factory, Heloisa in Lengnau, performing tasks like screwing cap jewels onto movements.
He joined the company of Robert Charrue, a former watchmaking school instructor who gained fame for crafting the world’s smallest tourbillon (measuring just 23.69 mm in diameter).
In Charrue's company, Schaffo worked on producing watches for the Rolex Cellini line, assembling 100 pieces per week.
Then came the quartz crisis—a turning point in the industry. "Suddenly, Rolex introduced short-time work for the first time in its history, cutting production by 20%," Schaffo recalls.
With manufacturing shifting back to Rolex’s main facilities in Geneva and Biel, Charrue’s business suffered, forcing Schaffo to walk his own path. Today, he is self-employed, though not yet entirely independent. His ultimate goal is to sell all his watches under his own name, without acting as a supplier to the watch industry—a milestone he has yet to fully achieve.
Gilbert Dubois, the case maker for Schaffo’s watches, is also a trusted supplier to some of the most renowned watch brands. A true all-rounder, Dubois is not just a case maker—he is a goldsmith, mechanic, and case maker. His clients include Ulysse Nardin, Bertolucci, and Corum, among others.
His workshop, tucked away in the attic of a former housing factory in Le Locle, is packed with machines. One might expect a bustling team of workers, yet Dubois operates alone—an independent artisan dedicated to his craft. Unlike many manufacturers that rely on casting, Dubois meticulously mills and turns each bezel or case from solid gold or platinum, ensuring superior quality and precision.
"For us, the customer is king," says Kurt Schaffo. "We once crafted a wristwatch case for an antique Patek Philippe pocket watch—designed in such a way that it could be seamlessly converted back into a pocket watch at any time."
Attempting such a transformation on a highly valuable timepiece requires not only skill but also courage and creative ingenuity—qualities that define the exceptional artisans behind these masterpieces.
Gilbert Dubois
Gilbert Dubois’ workshop
For Christophe and Kurt Schaffo, imagination is a needed part of their daily work. Beyond their “series production” for the watch industry, no two Schaffo timepieces are ever the same. Each movement begins as a blank canvas—a foundation for a unique skeletonized design. The process starts with carefully planning how the movement plates will be cut away, creating an intricate new pattern for every watch.
Using a precision drilling machine, Schaffo meticulously drills holes into the base plates, bridges, and clamps. These openings allow him to thread the ultra-fine blade of a watchmaker’s saw, a tool reminiscent of a jeweler’s fretsaw. Working with remarkable speed and accuracy, he saws away excess material, shaping the skeletal framework of the movement.
Then comes the true test of craftsmanship—the fine-tuning. With an array of razor-sharp, custom-modified files, Schaffo carefully removes material from the bridges and plates, ensuring that the movement is as open and delicate as possible without compromising its structural integrity. This is where his artistry shines: designing a movement so finely skeletonized that the intricate dance of gears, escapement, and balance wheel remains fully visible—yet perfectly functional.
The transformation is astonishing. The weight of a fully skeletonized movement is reduced to a mere fraction of its original mass. For instance:
A men’s automatic movement, initially 10 grams, weighs just 2.50 grams after skeletonization.
A pocket watch movement (diameter 33.84mm) is reduced to only 4.10 grams.
Once the delicate framework is complete, the final stage of metalworking begins. Every sawn and filed edge is carefully beveled and polished using a specialized polishing file, giving the movement its signature refined look.
Originally from Zurich, Schaffo has lived in French-speaking Switzerland since 1956. He is among a rare handful of artisans with the skill to transform raw movements into exquisite mechanical sculptures—a talent that even the most prestigious watch brands proudly showcase in their watches.
What others only claim, Kurt Schaffo truly masters.
Kurt Schaffo: Talentiertes Duo - Originally published in Chronos uhren magazine (5-2001)
A Watchmaker Without Borders
It’s surprising to hear Kurt Schaffo, who grew up in Zurich and has roots in Solothurn, speaks French. "I practically only speak French now," he says. "When I first came to French-speaking Switzerland in 1955, I instinctively felt at home."
Ironically, the Schaffo family was originally French. They arrived in Switzerland with the Bourbaki army during the Franco-Prussian War of 1870/71, seeking refuge. That historical connection has now come full circle—Kurt’s eldest son, Christophe, lives just 500 meters from the French border, in La Brévine, a remote hamlet in the Neuchâtel Jura.
A Father-Son Masterpiece
Without Christophe’s skill, the skeletonized movements created by Kurt Schaffo wouldn’t have the same artistic charisma that collectors admire. His son meticulously engraves each movement with elaborate decorations, enhancing their beauty. "It may not sound very credible to praise your own children," Kurt admits, "but I truly believe Christophe is one of the best engravers in Switzerland."
One look at Christophe’s intricate work—some adorned with mother-of-pearl or enamel—and his father’s words ring true. Every movement tells its own story, carefully shaped by their combined craftsmanship.
Creating Without Constraints
For each raw caliber destined for skeletonization, Kurt Schaffo envisions a new design. "I don’t sketch or plan," he reveals. "I see the final result in my mind’s eye." He begins by lightly etching the pattern onto the movement, guiding the delicate transformation.
A Collector’s Treasure
Schaffo’s timepieces have a devoted following—primarily in Germany. "That’s likely because I’ve been exhibiting at Inhorgenta in Munich for nearly 20 years," he explains. Expansion into new markets is a slow, deliberate process—just like his meticulous watchmaking. "I’m not looking for fame or growth. I don’t have the capacity for mass production," he says.
Instead, he remains committed to his exclusive clientele, who deeply appreciate the rarity and craftsmanship of a true Schaffo timepiece. After all, only a watch created by Kurt Schaffo is a Schaffo watch.
Three generations of the Schaffo family: Kurt, Christophe, and Julien.
Kurt Schaffo posing with his Alpine A310 V6
Kurt Schaffo: The Sporty Watch Artist - Originally published in Alpine-Post magazine (2011) - Text and photos by Manfred Gantenbrink
Kurt Schaffo loves both sports cars and watchmaking. Upon meeting him, you would never guess he is 75 years old. This fit man is a world-renowned skeleton watchmaker, and he calls himself an “artisan d'horlogerie fine”.
As a young man, Schaffo aspired to be an auto mechanic, but fate led him into the world of watchmaking. Starting from scratch, he mastered the trade and became one of the most famous skeleton watchmakers in the industry.
Then came the quartz crisis of 1976. The rise of digital watches sent shockwaves through the Swiss watch industry, forcing many manufacturers to shut down. Over 35,000 specialists lost their jobs, and only the most skilled artisans managed to survive.
Fortunately, in recent years, the tides have turned. Handmade watches are back in demand, and the luxury watch market is growing once again. As appreciation for fine craftsmanship grows, so too does the demand for luxury timepieces.
LOCLE CLOCK MUSEUM in the Château des Monts
Kurt Schaffo used Le Château des Monts, home to the Musée d'Horlogerie du Locle, as a backdrop to photograph his Alpine A310 V6.
Built between 1780 and 1790, the château housed five generations of the DuBois family before being sold in 1911 to Georges Ducommun, founder of Doxa. His daughter, Hélène Nardin, later sold it to the town of Le Locle in 1954. The estate, designed in the refined Louis XVI style, stands as a testament to elegance and heritage. As a well-known neighbor, Schaffo was naturally granted access for his photoshoot.
Schaffo, a meticulous Swiss artisan, works alone in his high-altitude workshop near La Chaux-de-Fonds, the heart of Swiss watchmaking. His craft, bluntly put, involves "sawing up watches"—a skill many companies aspire to but few truly master.
Beyond horology, Schaffo has a deep passion for motorsports. In the 1970s, he was part of the timekeeping personnel for the 24 Hours of Le Mans, overseeing the Porsche 911 Turbo driven by Claude Haldi, among others. Even in his 70s, he continues to race his Alpine A310 V6 in hill climbs. As a lifelong car enthusiast, he fulfilled a childhood dream in 2002 by acquiring a Maserati 4200 GT/Coupe, powered by a Ferrari engine.
His philosophy: "I couldn’t do anything that I didn’t feel passionate about."
Kurt Schaffo’s watches presented at the Musée d'Horlogerie du Locle
In today's economically uncertain times (2011), people are once again seeking lasting values. Kurt Schaffo knows the challenges of difficult times firsthand. His journey as a watch specialist was anything but easy in the beginning.
Over the years, he has worked with nearly half of all major watch manufacturers. His expertise has contributed to some of the most prestigious Swiss luxury brands, including Rolex, Patek Philippe, Breitling, Cartier, Audemars Piguet, Montblanc, IWC, Blancpain, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Tissot, Ulysse Nardin, and Zenith, to name just a few.
Kurt now works in a pleasant atmosphere, often with good jazz music playing in the background. Yet, a 70-hour workweek is not uncommon for him. He maintains an extremely disciplined routine, typically starting his day at 6:30 a.m. and after lunch he works until 7 p.m. Even after dinner, the staunch opponent of quartz watches ("I can’t even change a battery, he says") often finds himself back at his workbench in the one-man company he founded in 1980.
For our visit, he carefully selected a few pieces from his safe—some true masterpieces, including rare gems and unique creations that will never be sold. One such encounter occurred at the Geneva Motor Show when Luca di Montezemolo, the influential head of Ferrari, was captivated by Kurt’s work. He wanted to acquire them on the spot. But in his characteristic calm and measured manner, Kurt politely declined—even though his watches frequently command six-figure sums.
Kurt Schaffo refines luxury watches into exceptional, rare, and highly sought-after collector’s pieces. With meticulous precision, he drills, saws, and files the components of a mechanical movement until it becomes a delicate, almost transparent work of art.
He removes everything that isn’t essential to the watch’s function. An anchor piston, barely wider than a wallpaper nail, is reduced to a wafer-thin frame of gold-plated brass. A movement that originally weighed 24.5 grams is sculpted down to just 1.8 grams through his artistic slimming process. This style of minimalism is currently in high demand. The world's leading watch manufacturers seek his expertise—patiently waiting for the moment when he can find time in his workshop to fulfill their orders. Just as the 100-year anniversary edition of the Star Chronograph GMT Perpetual Calendar from Montblanc which proudly bears his signature craftsmanship.
For the most delicate tasks, Kurt—an avid wine connoisseur and collector—uses a champagne cork as a work surface. Its elasticity prevents the fragile components from tilting while he files them to perfection. To him, the process of skeletonization is much like aging a fine wine. “Can you speed it up?” he remarks. He spends roughly three days on each rotor but acknowledges, “It’s quite possible I’ll need an extra day. The work should be done as well as possible.” In total, it takes around four weeks to skeletonize a single watch. The three limited-edition timepieces, priced at €95,000 each, sold out immediately.
Each year, around 60 watches leave Kurt’s workshop. His son, Christopher, adds intricate and imaginative engravings to his father’s exclusive timepieces, while Gilbert Dubois crafts the cases. Only a portion of the production carries Kurt’s name—the rest are supplied to the Swiss watch industry. And how long does he plan to continue skeletonizing? "The eyes will determine," he says.
The following articles:
Kurt Schaffo - Originally published in UHREN-MAGAZIN (1992)
Kurt Schaffo: Talentiertes Duo - Originally published in Chronos uhren magazine (5-2001)
Kurt Schaffo: The Sporty Watch Artist, originally appeared in Alpine-Post (2011). Text and photos by Manfred Gantenbrink.
Translated and re-edited for online use by VINTAGE VIEW.
Want to read the full German articles? Contact me!
Watches by Kurt Schaffo
—WORK IN PROGRESS—
VINTAGE VIEW x Kurt Schaffo
Searching for lost treasures is what drives me. While I appreciate a good Rolex, most of its mysteries have already been uncovered and documented by experts. I'm after something different—the pieces that time forgot. Unfortunately, craftsmanship without documentation often fades into obscurity, losing its value and story.
Every now and then, a hidden gem surfaces unexpectedly, but Kurt Schaffo was a brand that had been on my radar for years. I had seen its name in old magazines, listed among legends like Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin. Why was Kurt Schaffo mentioned alongside such icons? That question fueled my curiosity, pushing me to uncover more.
The hunt for a Kurt Schaffo was sparked by a 1981 Europa Star article on the craftsmanship of skeletonized watches.
Searching for watches takes time, and then, out of nowhere, a Kurt Schaffo appears for sale—a men's-sized model from the mid-1990s, exactly my preferred piece. Luckily, it belonged to a very kind seller, giving me the rare chance to own and see a Kurt Schaffo with my own eyes.
Kurt Schaffo model 310
Seeing this watch in the flesh is an unforgettable experience. Examining its fully handcrafted details under a macro lens—pure insanity! To me, this is watchmaking at its finest—a timepiece crafted by a master.
Receiving the watch was just the beginning. As I examined its intricate craftsmanship, I was captivated by the level of detail and artistry that had gone into its creation. But beyond the watch itself, uncovering the story behind it—getting to know the decendants of Kurt Schaffo and learning about the dedication, skill, and vision of its maker—is just on a different level.
What resonated with me even more was discovering his shared passion for cars. And the fun coincidence of his ownership of a Daimler and a Jaguar. Seeing this parallel and the insane level of craftsmanship made the connection feel even more personal. This is what watch collecting is all about!
Many thanks to the Schaffo family for their support in the creation and research of this article.
Do you own a watch from Kurt Schaffo or do you have/need more information about this brand?
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